10 November 2009

My Old Friend, Señora Propano

My propane is disappearing about twice as fast as it formerly did because of the cooler weather at night. The little propane heater kicks on quite often in the early morning hours.

I would like to announce a small victory that occurred today in connection with Señora Propano. Once again I had to drive out into the bush and exchange my empty tank for a new one. In the process of that transaction, the always taciturn Señora Propano had to give me change in the grand amount of 6 pesos (€0.30).

I have not explained before that there are no rolls of coins here as we know them. At least I have not encountered any yet. Rather, merchants obtain their change supply in the form of stacks of coins that are tapped together. These stacks of coins are not taped together with just any tape. They are taped together with that clear packing tape.

Señora Propano was struggling to get the tape off one of these stacks of coins with her quite amazing fingernails. Her fingernails are a piece of work, and I knew that she was concerned about them. I pulled my Swiss Army knife out of my pocket and offered it to her. She then blessed me with the most radiant smile. I was shocked! I could not believe it!

Let be clear though. I am not saying that Señora Propano and I are tight now or anything of the sort. I am only saying that our relationship has evolved. Thanks to a Swiss Army knife. A Swiss Army knife can perform miracles. A Swiss Army knife is a consumer product given us by God himself.

All was not smooth this time though. When I returned, I found that I had purchased an old style tank without the proper safety valve on top. Luckily, the threads are on the inside of the outlet on these old tanks instead of on the outside. I could not hook it up at all.

Therefore, I made a second trip out into the bush to see Señora Propano and inquire about the possibility of an exchange of tanks. The traffic was grim today because of detours and road work. Grim. (Sometime I need to take some photos and describe what one is up against driving through a highway construction zone here. Thank goodness my truck has four-wheel drive.) However, I remained calm, The Allman Brothers live in New York City in 1973 in the disk player all the way.

When I chatted the second time with Señora Propano, she explained that they do not have any of the new tanks full and in stock right now. Mañana. Mañana at 10:00 a.m. Now I can tell you to a certainty that is utter bullshit. There is no way on this earth that God created—the same God that created Swiss Army knives--that those new tanks will be there then. It is very unlikely they will be there at all tomorrow. Nonetheless, after lunch in the afternoon tomorrow, I am going to brave that traffic again and dutifully make the trek out there into the bush to see if I can exchange this tank for a thoroughly modern one.

I am still calm though. Calm as calm can be. Honest, I am.


This tank with the old style valve that is in my possession now at one time fueled the little propane heater on Noah's Ark.




08 November 2009

Sunday in the Park

From the profane to the sublime.






I have slowly lost interest in walking up town and spending time with the cosmopolitan crowd at El Jardin. I have been spending more time in the plaza de San Antonio less than a block from where I live. It is Mexican.


Aerial bombs went off this morning at 6:00 a.m. so close to me that I knew something was going on there today. I find now that the original purpose of these aerial bombs was to notify neighboring villages and neighborhoods that a party is about to occur. The aerial bombs this morning were so close and so loud that they set off car alarms on calle de Palma where Stephen, Frank, and Allyson live next to the plaza.


You will recall that not too long ago we got the young people through their first communion at San Antonio Church. Today we baptized babies. I arrived a bit late as the crowd was emerging from the church.




Pick a baby, any baby, and click on the photo.





























































































All day music was provided from the steps in front of my grocery store next to the church, Abarrotes San Antonio, courtesy of a disk jockey with a huge bank of speakers. Mexican disk jockeys never short you on volume. The music then stopped for each mass during the day.


Around 3:00 a solo singer performed with his own background music on disk.


Then later came the rest of the little fiesta, which is the subject of the video that follows.






07 November 2009

Saturday Morning



This was an idyllic Saturday morning. I sat outside in the sun with my coffee listening to Monteverdi's Vespers, not on the iPod but from the new exterior speakers. My pastry was on a paper plate. (Please. Nothing about the environmental impact of paper plates. I wash my paper plates and use them over again until they fray.) After I had eaten the pastry, the paper plate sat on my little table content. There was no wind. Perfectly still. Except of course for the financiers of the world playing tennis.

05 November 2009

Blocking the Driveway





We have come to a point now. I have made many rash observations about the Mexican people in this blog from the moment I crossed the border. I have now been in México long enough that I am encountering other phenomena that sometimes are entirely consistent with my first conclusions and sometimes are entirely inconsistent with my first conclusions.

Here is how I intend to proceed. As to those phenomena that are inconsistent with my first conclusions, particularly those that entirely disprove my first conclusions, I will simply ignore them. On the other hand I will tell you about those phenomena that appear to have proven me right. This is my own way of felicitously limiting my subjects.

The subject today is a different facet of the concept of respect. You will recall that I blathered on a bit about this subject and the related subject of pride not too long ago in the context of language. But first a bit of background.

Parking is a bit more chaotic here than what we are used to. If an American has doubts about whether he ought to park his car in a certain location, he will more than likely chose not to park there. If a Mexican has doubts about whether he ought to park his car in a certain location, he will exercise the benefit of that doubt in his own favor every time and park there. In part this has to do with possible consequences. For the Mexican whose intentions have somehow been adversely affected by the person who has done the parking, calling a policeman is the last thing that would occur to him for several reasons.


So that brings us to the subject of blocking driveways. However, “driveways” look different here. Living in México, as soon as you have the wherewithal, you would acquire four stone or concrete walls and sleep within those stone or concrete walls with everything you care about, including your motor vehicle. Preferably, you would also acquire two large dogs to sleep among your stuff inside those stone or concrete walls. Lastly, you might mortar in some broken beer bottles along the top of your stone or concrete walls or, better yet, string some concertina wire up there—depending on your neighborhood.

My own big door.

I live within four stone walls that enclose a very large area, and I sleep with my truck. My landlady and her sons, who also live within these stone walls, provide the dogs.

These people enjoy the wonderful benefit of living on the side of my street where parking is forbidden entirely. Still, they have signs. The signs are simply smaller.

Your front stone or concrete wall is going to abut the street. That will be the wall where the large door is located that allows you to pull your car into the courtyard. This is not a "garage door" in the sense that you understand that phrase. The length of your “driveway” is equivalent to the width of the sidewalk. These large doors can be art forms in México, but that is a subject for another day.

I know. No sign. But this house was newly renovated and not occupied yet.


Here arises the problem. Most of these “driveway” doors are active, used regularly. However, many of these “driveway” doors are not actively used and have been bolted shut for years. One can park in front of the latter with no problem obviously. Problems arise when one parks in front of the former. At this point please recall what I said about the Mexican who is doing the parking exercising the benefit of the doubt in his own favor.

So then. That brings us to what American street departments refer to as “signage.” Private sales of signs in México consist of only one sign. No Estacionarse. “No Parking.” These signs are often embellished with additional information like “Active Entrance” or “Automobile Entrance” or “Truck Exit” or the like. I am just telling you. If you have no sign on your large door abutting the street here, then people will park in front of it. It is that simple.

The big door between Carmen's Restaurant
and Café del Sol


Finally, I have come to my point. Many times, probably in frustration, a Mexican large door owner will do his own embellishment of his “No Parking” sign. The one above is an example of my favorite embellishment because of what has been painted at the bottom. Respeteme. “Respect me.” The verb “to respect” in the third person imperative. To my way of thinking, that is quintessentially Latin. No American would add that to his “No Parking” sign. Respeteme is a very common embellishment to a “No Parking” sign here though.

Let me amend that a bit. I can imagine an Italian-American in Chicago, not too removed from the old country, adding “Show Some Respect” to his “No Parking” sign. But would that not be an indication to us that he is not entirely “assimilated?”

And what is the typical American's reaction when someone has blocked his driveway? “This dumb bastard has blocked my driveway!” The person who has done the parking is a thoughtless moron. That is all. No American would frame the issue in terms of respect.

Moreover, never in México have I seen a "No Parking" sign with an embellishment to the effect that your car will be towed away if you park there. Not ever. Never. Not even once have I seen that.

The Mexican does not consider the person who has blocked his driveway to be a moron. He understands the benefit of the doubt at work in the act of parking a car here. (Notice the addition of por favor above. "Please.") In other words, he maintains his respect for the person who has done the parking, but at the same time he is offended because that person has shorted him on the respect that is due back.

I may be overstating all this a bit, but not by far. Do you understand the distinction that I am making?

04 November 2009

El Día de los Muertos



Another tourist entry before we get back to really important things.

I am sure that I am not the first gringo who has had a bit of trouble coming to terms with Day of the Dead, the three-day holiday just past here. Having run the gauntlet of the thing only once, here is my very subjective take on it.

I recall as a young child the routine on Memorial Day weekend in the bush of Iowa. My parents would load up the trunk of the car or the back of the pickup with freshly cut flowers, some cans, and a big jug of water. We would then drive around to cemeteries, at each stop placing cans of flowers on the graves of dead relatives, filling up the can with water, and taking off for the next cemetery. We would spend the morning doing this, and that would be that. The time this took depended on how many people there were in the cemeteries that my parents knew, but we were usually done by early afternoon at the latest.














A Pátzcuaro cemetery being readied.

First and foremost, Day of the Dead here is a very intense Memorial Day. Families go into the cemeteries and spend a good part of the day and the night there with the graves of their loved ones. There is one little exception to this. During a certain time period during the holiday, only women and children stay with the graves. Still, the simple fact is that the cemeteries are full of people at night.



Two Catrinas in the flesh who kindly
posed for me at a sidewalk café.

There is a dash of Halloween added to this. Many people wear costumes. The children here do their own version of “Trick or Treat.” They are not interested in candy, however. They are interested in cash.










On the walk into central Pátzcuaro, the first thing one encounters is many truckloads of flowers for sale for placement on graves. However, they are different varieties of flowers than those I associate with funerals, for example. Therefore, the fragrance of these mountains of flowers was purely delightful for me.

Then there is added to this a dash of the fiesta, but only a dash.

The personification of death itself is a figurine called La Catrina. The photo to the left is of a classic example. The Mexican people actually refer to death affectionately as La Catrina. This image was invented and made popular by a famous author and political cartoonist named Guadalupe Posada (1852-1913). La Catrina is always dressed in the attire of his time. There is actually a couple, Catrin y Catrina, but nobody really pays any attention to the man. These figurines in various color schemes and various sizes are for sale everywhere. A close second in popularity are decorated skulls.







A typical altar in a Pátzcuaro restaurant.

Additionally, the construction of altars is important. Restaurants, hotel lobbies, and other public places feature many altars constructed especially for the Day of the Dead weekend.

As I mentioned earlier Pátzcuaro is the center of the Day of the Dead celebration in México. Why? I have no idea now. However, it clearly is. We were so relieved that we were getting out of town in the early afternoon of Sunday. Outside of town on the highway, a seemingly endless line of cars was waiting to get into the city.

Day of the Dead is a large thing in México, and I find it fascinating. I do not wish to wax too philosophical here. However, there is a kind of intimacy with death among these people. I am now absolutely convinced that a consciousness of death, an awareness of death, a regard for death is a part of the psyche of the Mexican people in a profoundly different way than it is among Americans. To tell you the truth, I am still mentally adjusting to this after the weekend.








Isla de Janitzio




I must treat this recent trip to Pátzcuaro in the state of Michoacán in snippets. Frank, Allyson, and I spent Saturday and Sunday there. Monday was the official holiday known at Day of the Dead, El Día de los Muertos. Sunday was Day of the Infants, El Día de los Inocentes, the day dedicated to remembrance of deceased children. I have a much better understanding of all that now, although still admittedly imperfect. More about that later.

03 November 2009

I am alive!

New pullover on me this morning in front
of the cabana on Stephen's roof with Bubba.

I did arrive back home late Sunday evening from the side trip to Pátzcuaro, and I do have photos of the Day of the Dead doings there. However, in connection with that trip I mislaid my camera bag, which has in it the cord with which to connect my camera to the laptop. Instead of wasting a lot of energy searching for it yesterday, I took this approach. I sat out in the sun working on my tan and waited for the camera bag to reappear of its own volition. It did. Eventually, it got lonely and crawled out from under the front passenger seat of Frank and Allyson's truck.

I must get ready right now for another dinner party. I have a new shirt from the market at Pátzcuaro to wear. Should be good. I shall get back at it here either late tonight or early in the morning and catch y'all up.

New shirt with coffee this morning
in front of the cabana on Stephen's roof.

The menu tonight, I am told, includes mole, a salsa picante with chocolate added. I mention this because if I do not show up again here as promised, you will know that the mole got me.