13 June 2010

Día de los Locos I




The fiesta season opens with Día de los Locos, the central figure of which is Saint Anthony. I live in the neighborhood called Colonia San Antonio. Consequently, this is a large event here.








Saturday they brought San Antonio to the church.





Those kids up there with the bells can really ring 'em.









Devotees of San Antonio walked on their knees to the church with the help of family and friends who placed little pieces of carpet or blankets on the stone in front of them.







A gourmet dinner at Stephen's new apartment at the tennis courts.









Then fireworks. As usual the delightful Mexican fireworks were totally unpredictable. The flying saucer once again came down in flames right in the middle of the crowd up in the plaza in front of the church.





This is Fred, Stephen, Simon, and I with the chief fire extinguisher guy.

Today, Sunday, will be the big day.





12 June 2010

Supplemental Photo




At Los Milagros for Game One with La Mexicana
and Stephen on my flanks.


Credit to Simon for this photo. Canadians are handy to have around. Thanks, Simon.

11 June 2010

Game One




After watching Mexico play to a 1-1 tie against South Africa, I can report that your average Mexican's reaction to kissing his sister is exactly the same reaction that anyone else would have—relief when it is over. (I do not have a sister, and therefore, I speculate.)




I went to sleep last evening fairly confident that this one was in the bag for Mexico. La Mexicana insisted that we go up town to Los Milagros to watch the opening ceremony that was broadcast here at 7:00 a.m. Hell, I have never been up town at that hour.






Nobody there but a few folks cleaning up.




Los Milagros is located just down from the main plaza on Relox, which was utterly deserted at that hour.




In any event, it was not until I saw the opening ceremonies that the ramifications of this home field thing started to come home to me.




During the opening ceremony, large numbers of South Africans were allowed to gather in the middle of the field and do what clearly appeared to me to be indigenous war dances.




They even brought out a giant African scarab beetle and allowed it to roll around a fútbol. The South Africans in the crowd went wild. To make matters worse, the South African team was allowed to dance and sing belligerent South African songs together as they came onto the field to warm up. It was then that I realized that the Mexican team was in for a rough slog.




Meanwhile the crowd at Los Milagros was just gathering.




Our good friend Stephen, the musician, attended with us along with Simon from the tennis courts.



I am used to the Budweiser girls working the crowd in sports bars where I come from. Here it was the Corona girls. This one is distributing horns and inflatable clackers. Unfortunately, La Mexicana got her hands on a horn and a pair of those inflatable clackers.





I would love to have a word with the guy who invented those inflatable clackers.

I am not going to compete with the professionally done game summaries that are all over the internet. Suffice it to say that the Mexicans came out firing—Dos Santos peppered the net--and came up empty. Late in the first half and early in the second, one could easily see things start to swing around to the South African side. Sure enough, at 55 minutes Tshabalala put in a very pretty goal after breaking away.

The unofficial nickname of the South African team is bafana, bafana, meaning “the boys.” Apparently in the Zulu language, when you wish to make a noun plural, you simply say it twice. Which makes sense. A whole bunch of boys would therefore be bafana, bafana, bafana. And so forth.

So there we were down 1-0 to bafana, bafana in the second half. Old Cuauhtémoc came into the game at 68 minutes. Javier Hernández at 72 minutes. Those substitutions resulted in the loudest cheers of the day in Los Milagros, other then the cheering for Mexico's tying goal by Rafael Márquez at 78 minutes. (I told you that he is important.)

South Africa came very, very close to the upset. Katlego Mphela hit the left post at 89 minutes. I honestly do not know why Óscar Pérez was in goal for Mexico rather than Ochoa. I guess because he is the veteran.


Óscar Pérez, not just another pretty face in goal.


In any event the goal keepers for both teams did well with both of them pulling off one truly world class save each. At 59 minutes Dos Santos sent a blistering shot toward the upper right corner of the goal that would have tied the game then and been a great answer to South Africa's goal four minutes earlier. However, Itumeleng Khune laid out high to deflect it.

In this game two very pretty goals and two very pretty saves, one of each for each side.





The crowd at Los Milagros was—how shall we say this?--a mature one. This is Catherine, an American expatriate who wandered in to watch the game without reservations. We invited her to our table. She turned out to be a very lively gal. Speaks great Spanish.




Los Milagros was as billed. Professional service, which is not always the case in Mexico. Great food. Affordable. Just a little higher end place than I had in mind for this event. Tomorrow afternoon I plan on watching the United States of America play at a considerably seedier place, Manolo's.

We will try to find a place with young people in attendance later. This was the wrong game, at the wrong place, at the wrong time of day for the emotional roller coaster one normally experiences watching Mexican fúbol with Mexicans. We will be in the middle of one of those before this thing is over.

Afterward one saw a lot of Mexican people out in the street and at work today with their fútbol jerseys on, but no trucks careering through the streets loaded with fans blowing horns. Everyone just seems quietly happy to have escaped the loss.

How did I get caught up in sports again? To say nothing of the fact that the sport in question is fútbol. The lesson is, never say never.


* * * * * * * * * * * *


I just finished watching the other two teams in Group A, France and Uruguay, play to a 0-0 tie. So when all was said and done today, the position of the teams in Group A is exactly the same as when the day began.

My old American pal, Wings, summarizes the experience of watching “soccer” this way: “Something's going to happen! Something's going to happen! . . . .Ooooh. Nothing happened.” You just say that over and over again, and you have replicated the experience of a soccer game, according to him.

The end result today in Group A? Everybody got one point, and nothing happened.

10 June 2010

We Need Some Tourists



I never, ever thought that I would say this. We need some tourists here.

Everybody--restauranteurs, hoteliers, the art gallery people and their artists, the Indian ladies selling trinkets, pickpockets, con men working the streets--everybody is dying on the vine. We need some outsiders to come in here and spend some cash.




This was the pot luck dinner at the tennis courts campground just before Christmas.



Recently, only Joachim and Bärbel and I have been in attendance. . .and the chickens in those coops, too, of course. (That is Court Number 3 in the background.)



That is my castle in the foreground with the big German rig just beyond it. Both have been sitting there for more than a year now. Our spots abut the fence around Court Number 2.

Peeking out from behind the German rig is the French Canadian couple's truck. (I am ashamed to say that I cannot recall their names off hand.) They were here over the holidays and then headed on south. They got as far as the border of El Salvador and returned a couple of days ago. They are intending to rent an apartment here now.




Apropos of nothing, that Turkeys Trot long-sleeved tee is a valuable keepsake from back home to which I am sentimentally attached. The Turkey Trot is an annual early morning run held on Thanksgiving Day. I love that shirt. My main gym shirt now. I wish I had the 2007 and 2008 editions of that shirt with me. They are safely stored back on the farm. I am preserving them to wear at weddings and funerals and such.

John at Climate Engineers sponsors the Turkey Trot. It starts and ends at Mahoney's Pub. I recently sent John some electronic greetings with photos attached commending him on this shirt that he gave me. What a good guy is that John.

I have come to love the dog, too. I swore off dogs decades ago and have been bitching about other peoples' dogs ever since. And wouldn't you know it? A dog comes along and seduces me.

Love me; love my dog. Or not.

09 June 2010

Los Milagros




We scouted out our venue for the World Cup opener on Friday late this afternoon. Had coffee in there.

08 June 2010

Cuauhtémoc Must Not Have Sex for the Time Being




First, there is this guy, Javier Aguirre. Fifty-one years old. At the beginning of the qualifying games, Mexico's coach was a guy named Sven-Göran Eriksson, who had formerly coached in England. Whose idea was it to put a man with a name like that in the position of head coach of the Mexican team? Needless to say, they were in big trouble and realized it. Eriksson was let go and Aguirre named as head coach. The team lost his first qualifying game. They then improved with each of the following games with the big win coming AT Costa Rica.

See, the thing is that there is always a concern about Mexico's ability to win on the road without the great advantage of playing way up in the air at Estadio Azteca in Mexico City. Therefore, one of the measuring sticks of any coach here is the ability of his team to win games away. And may God have mercy on any coach whose team loses at home.

That Costa Rica game made Aguirre a savior-like figure. He now does public service announcements on television explaining proper moral behavior to Mexicans. You know, love thy neighbor as thyself, and that sort of thing. The strange thing is that Mexicans seem to take this seriously.

I like the guy though. He is human. Last year during a CONCACAF Gold Cup game against Panama, Aguirre kicked at a Panamanian player when that player was out of bounds trying to retrieve the ball—exactly the same sort of conduct that got Woody Hayes fired as the Ohio State football coach years ago. It was ugly. He got away with only a three-game suspension because nobody likes Panamanians anyway except a small minority of other Panamanians.

Still, he generally projects a Vince Lambardi-like, disciplined personality with this endearing little streak of kindness thrown in. As a result, he is able to maintain good relations with his players. These fútbol players are all prima donnas to a greater or lesser extent. It is a very common thing for players simply to pick up and leave a team after a disagreement with a coach. This has not happened with him, and all indications are that his players like him while at the same time respecting him. He is a cool guy, by which I mean nothing other than his people are willing to play hard for him.




I have never mentioned Rafael Márquez before. Surprise, surprise. He is a defender. This guy is critical to Mexico's performance, however. He normally plays for Barcelona, I think. The problem is that he is currently hurt. And he quite often is hurt. That is his downside. Mexico truly does need him to heal up quickly.

His reputation rests not only on his ability to defend. He also has a great talent for making the the first pass from way back in the field that sets up potential scoring plays.

So that brings me to the two players about whom I have written before.


Giovani Dos Santos is 21 years old and a pure athlete. He is a gazelle, as they say. Very graceful. From my own perspective and based upon the admittedly very few games that I have watched, the most striking thing about him is his ability to accelerate from a standing start. I would love to know how fast he can run the 100 meters. No, the 40 rather. He just blows by people. He is very, very entertaining to watch.




This is the only way to slow Giovani down.


He has had a mediocre career in Europe sitting on the bench in Barcelona (which is no disgrace) and then not doing much with Tottenham in England. I think he now still plays there in England with Ipswich Town. Sooner or later though, mark my words. . .

Great athleticism in a young player is not inevitably married to great intelligence. I am not talking about his IQ. I am talking about game sense. The problem with pure athletes like this in any game is that they are so physically skilled that they are able to cover up their mental mistakes in games at a lower level with their speed or strength or agility or whatever. So they do not learn the mental part of the game or more accurately, learn it imperfectly. When they reach the top level of whatever game they play, the opposition can make them look foolish when they make a mistake because the opposition has suddenly become very good at what they do.

All I am saying is that young Giovani must avoid going brain dead at critical moments in these World Cup games.




Cuauhtémoc Blanco, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways. Cuauhtémoc is named after the great Aztec ruler of their capitol and nephew of the emperor Moctezuma, a legend in Mexico. I am not going to tell the whole story of the original Cuauhtémoc here. Suffice it to say that he was ultimately tortured by the conquistadores, who wanted him to reveal the location of the great Aztec treasure. They put his feet in a fire, but he did not talk. How appropriate for reasons I will explain.

Cuauhtémoc Blanco is 37 years old. He also plays for my son's favorite team, the Chicago Fire. His picture is plastered up on billboards all over Chicago. He is such an endearing player because of his work ethic, about which I wrote at length before.

The problem is that he is old. He really cannot run up and down a fútbol field for an entire game anymore, at least 5,400 seconds in all. Neither could I, and that is one big reason that I love him. Consequently, he is often saved and put into the game later. In contrast to Giovani, Cuauhtémoc is the wise old man who perfectly understands the game and has a preternatural ability to see the pass that will result in a scoring opportunity.

The opposition's response when Cuauhtémoc enters the game is a pretty standard one. They put two players on him, one of whom is usually a hatchet man, and beat him up. It is that simple. He is not a big man, five feet and ten inches, 160 pounds. Cuauhtémoc quite often ends up bleeding. First, they want to wear him down as quickly as possible. Second, and while doing that, they want to impede his ability to make the great pass. As one watches this happen and at the same time watches him continue to work, work, work at his job, one cannot help but get caught up in it all.




I was delighted with an interview of Cuauhtémoc's long time girlfriend on Mexican television this morning, however. (Don't ask me how long a time. Let us just say more than a month.) I have forgotten her name already, but she is you-can-leave-your-hat-on beautiful. She explained that they have been forbidden to have sex for the duration of the World Cup competition.

Apparently, as I understood it, they can hold each other, but they must not go all the way until this thing is over with . . . over with for Mexico, that is. They can go at it again as soon as Mexico is eliminated even if that is before the championship game is played. Just to clarify that part of the team rule . . . which frankly, is the part of the rule that worries me a little.

She seemed appropriately serious about this, and I have high hopes that she can refrain from flagrantly tempting old Cuauhtémoc. This was heartening. I was somewhat skeptical a few days ago when I first heard about this rule being imposed on the team. It struck me as an anachronistic approach left over from the golden years of boxing. Then I saw this woman for the first time. Now, I think that the rule is a really good idea. Cuauhtémoc must conserve everything he has for the field . . . or the "pitch," as I have taken to calling it.




This is Cuauhtémoc's former girlfriend. Obviously, I would not have as much faith in this woman in the current exigent circumstances. She does not look like a team player--in the sense that I am using the phrase--to me.




I will write about the great and cocky Guillermo Ochoa, the goal keeper, some other time. Thinking about what Cuauhtémoc is going to face on all fronts in this World Cup has me tired out.

Mexico has never in history survived beyond the second round in this competition nor are they expected to do so this time. My son says that Mexico's national team traditionally has a bad attitude. I don't know. Complaining about fútbol players' attitudes strikes me as comparable to complaining about the fact that the sun always rises in the east.




We shall see. I like the way they play together, but I have not purchased a copy of one of those new, beautiful, black, away jerseys . . . yet.

I have chosen my venue, and La Mexicana has made reservations for 9:00 a.m. this Friday. Mexico versus the host team, South Africa. The opening game of the World Cup over breakfast in the middle of a bunch of Mexican nut cases. A joint up town called Los Milagros, "The Miracles."

07 June 2010

06 June 2010

World Cup Week



I must mention this. The Mexican team opens the World Cup competition against the host country, South Africa, this Friday. Three days ago Mexico defeated world champion Italy in a friendly warm-up game in Brussels. I know. I know. Those games mean nothing. Still, Mexico played very well, and I do mean very well. One cannot help thinking that they belong in this tournament.

I am beginning my ritual ablutions now along with a strict regimen of prayer and fasting in preparation for Friday. I have not yet chosen the venue where I will watch the game, but I am resolved to have that decision made by Wednesday.